
Jaipur
By Carolyn Desalu
Words by Rondell Conway
Photography by Scott Council
Forming one point of the Golden Triangle, Jaipur is rich with a history of feuding lords and the dazzling beauty of a first class destination. Its landscape, dotted with elaborate palaces and centuries-old forts, is one of the world’s most extraordinary examples of Rajasthan and Mughal architecture. A glance at the rose-hued edifices in the oldest parts of town—the result of an edict handed down in 1876 by the Maharaja to paint everything this color of hospitality—and it’s clear how “Pink City” got its nickname. Royal eccentricities aside, Jaipur remains a haven of rural serenity, untouched by the modernism of skyscrapers and SUVs, where bicycle rickshaws and camels are still a common mode of transportation.
Forming one point of the Golden Triangle, Jaipur is rich with a history of feuding lords and the dazzling beauty of a first class destination. Its landscape, dotted with elaborate palaces and centuries-old forts, is one of the world’s most extraordinary examples of Rajasthan and Mughal architecture. A glance at the rose-hued edifices in the oldest parts of town—the result of an edict handed down in 1876 by the Maharaja to paint everything this color of hospitality—and it’s clear how “Pink City” got its nickname. Royal eccentricities aside, Jaipur remains a haven of rural serenity, untouched by the modernism of skyscrapers and SUVs, where bicycle rickshaws and camels are still a common mode of transportation.
Shopping: The US dollar is strong in India, making shopping a steal. Meander through the open bazaars to find exquisite handicrafts like vases, quilts and embroidered leather stools. Visit New Jodhpur Tailors (just a few yards from Karni Niwas), a men’s apparel shop where the tailor will create custom jodhpurs, shirts and suits. Or head to Surajpol Bazaar for precious and semi-precious gems, as well as meenakari, glazed enamel work on gold and silver.
DINING: Like all of India, cows are sacred in this region. You won’t miss beef at all, however, as locals incorporate an assortment of herbs and spices like kesar (saffron), mirichi (chilies) and kadipatta (curry leaves), as well as lentils and corn to give the cuisine a distinctive and remarkable flavor. Indulge in strictly veggie fare at Om, a revolving restaurant where Jaipur’s elite (and those willing to spend a few bucks) enjoy a prime view of the city while enjoying scrumptious dishes such as dosa, a potato and cashew filled crepe, or paneer naranji, cottage cheese with ginger, tomatoes and chilies (Church Road; ommljaipur@yahoo.com). For a delicious drink, visit the legendary Lassiwalla for lassis, a yogurt-based dessert-like treat served in terracotta mugs (MI Road).
Nightlife: Jaipur tends to be mellow at night. However, sitting outdoors catching a cool breeze and chatting with locals can be better entertainment than a club. Also make sure to see a Bollywood film at the immensely popular Raj Mandir, a huge movie theatre that resembles an opera house, complete with domed ceiling chandeliers (Bhawandas Road; located right off of MI Road).
Day Trip: Enjoy an elephant ride overlooking the Moatha Lake as you amble up to Amber Fort, located 11 kilometers from the city center. The interconnected buildings housing intricate carvings, mirrors and precious stone settings are a blend of Hindu and Muslim designs that once served as fortress and residence. One of the most extraordinary areas within is the Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors). Royal inhabitants could light a single candle and because of several thousand strategically placed tiny mirrors along walls, the entire room would light up. Amber Fort is an oxymoron because of its rugged, imposing exterior, but once inside, you will quickly feel enchanted by the royal décor inclusive of lush gardens. Within the fort, there are many locals working, and you’re likely to see women making bricks by hand, carrying large parcels atop their heads, or street photographers who somehow managed to capture your elephant ride picture.


For the rest of this feature, please order the Summer Edition of Uptown Magazine. |